There are a bajillion different types of housing for rabbits. What suits me, may not suit you, and with that in mind, below are the the most popular choices. But there is no reason why you can’t get creative with your rabbit’s lifestyle.
Understanding “rabbit time”
Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they are most active between 4pm (afternoon) – 7am (morning) each day. Domestic and pet rabbits do have manipulated day-cycles, when they are awake for most of the day. This is unnatural but they don’t know any better because that is part of their selective breeding.
You will notice that your rabbit has many quiet/sleepy times through the day, and has a few bursts of energy where it runs around. This is because they are up most of the night.
To house your rabbit properly you have to consider “rabbit time” at night.
Understanding “alone time”
Rabbits are cute and we love to hug and pat them, but they need alone time during the day. If they don’t have that switch-off place, where they are left alone, they will become frustrated and start eating things around the house, which in-turn makes you frustrated. That’s when the cycle escalates rapidly.
If your bunny is running around inside all day, it must have a place it can go that it won’t be disturbed, and it can switch off for a while. Rabbits learn very quickly where that place is, and they will choose to go there when they want to. The place might be its night-time pen, or a special bed. That’s up to you to choose so that it suits your lifestyle. For me, it’s their night-time pen. When they are in there, they have learned to be calm and not be stressed.
Considerations you need to make
If the rabbit is in a constant cold breeze, they can catch pneumonia. So give it somewhere to hide out of the breeze.
If the rabbit doesn’t get enough true sunlight, they can get digestive, skin and bone problems. True sunlight is not filtered through the window, screen door or shade cloth, it has to be directly from the sun. Filtered sun eliminates vitamins that the rabbit needs, like UV, and Vitamin D.
If the rabbit gets cold, they can die. Rabbits must be kept at a comfortable temperature, if their ears are a good check for their body temperature, but keep in mind, their ears will always be cooler than their true body temperature.
If the rabbit has too cold, too warm water, the water has mould, is contaminated with chemicals, or is dirty with poops in it, they can dehydrate because they won’t drink it. Rabbits need clean water at least 2 times a day.
There is a fine line between a healthy rabbit and cruelty. These pictures shows cruelty. These Flemish giants belong to a new breeder who only started up in 2022. He is a nice man, but he has no idea how to provide the best lifestyle for his rabbits. These poor things are suffering because they have to balance on the mesh floor. He keeps them on the mesh because it’s easy to clean, but it is in no way healthy for the rabbit, being such a large rabbit with a lot of weight, their big feet will be constantly sore, not to mention the fact that they don’t have anywhere to display rabbit behaviours. Don’t keep rabbits like this.
If the rabbit is kept on mesh, they can get sore feet, arthritis, raw hocks and other internal and digestion issues. They can’t lay down properly and they can’t hop. Some breeders keep their rabbits like this because they are breeding stock and they aren’t viewed as pets. “It doesn’t matter if they die, there are always more rabbits.”
If you don’t like it, or wouldn’t live like that, then don’t to it to your rabbit. It’s really that simple.
Rabbits must have contact with the ground, grass, sticks, leaves, bugs and true sunlight. Not at all times, but for at least 3 hours a day if possible, of course depending on your set up and the weather. But keep that in mind.
Affordability
It is really easy to spend a bajillion dollars on the perfect rabbit enclosure. But not all of us have that money. You have to make considerations about the best lifestyle for your rabbit, and if it’s not the life that you dream of giving your rabbit, then it might be best to not have the rabbit.
There is a fine line between animal cruelty and human pleasure, and remember the most beautiful Insta-worthy enclosure with fairy lights looks nice, but it is totally impractical.
To set up a rabbit properly it can cost upwards of $300. Think about it carefully.
Not all enclosures are pretty, but of course companies that make pretty ones charge more. Ask yourself, is it important to have a good looking one or a functional one that suits you? Will the rabbit really care about fairy lights and posters? All that pretty stuff will be destroyed within a month and you will have to replace it, can you afford that? And that brings me to the next topic…
Bunny Proofing
Rabbits chew… everything… carpet, cords, wooden furniture legs, the material on the base of a couch, table cloths, cushions, fabric, plants, plastic, rubber, curtains…
They shouldn’t, but they do. They will always go straight to the worst things first.
That’s where bunny proofing your house is a necessity if you are wanting your bunny to be free roaming.
Chewing cords and cables is also known as spicy hay, because it can give a little zap. Rabbits chew cables because they are soft, squishy and the right size for their mouth. It can cause your bunny to be electrocuted, or have plastic in its gut that it can’t digest, and that means they will need an operation to remove it. Prevention is better than cure, so make sure you fence off the areas you don’t want your bunny to go into, or block the equipment with a perspex/acrylic case.
Carpet pulling is another task that bunnies love. Carpet provides a way to use muscles that they wouldn’t often use. The only way to stop this natural tenancy, is to replace the activity with another, and saying “No, not the carpet.” Every time the rabbit starts to chew the carpet, pick the bun up and put it somewhere else, or direct its attention to another activity. Always give a treat to your bunny when it does the correct thing. Positive reinforcement is the best method. You can also give it things it can rip up and use the same muscles. Just make sure the item is free of chemicals, tapes, dyes and glues first.
Baseboards, doors, frames, wallpaper and walls. If your bunny is eating any of these, they are bored and wanting things to chew on. It needs more fibre in its diet. The ripping and pulling activity is also what they are looking for, so find an activity that is similar (like a dig box) and move the rabbit into the dig box while it is in the ripping motion. It will quickly replace one destruction for another if the new one is more fun.
Furniture, cushions, curtains, soft things that are stuffed… much the same. If a bunny has learned that it can be destructive it is hard to stop it. It’s up to you have to teach it to act out those feelings in a dig box, or a few soft toys.
House plants. Rabbits cannot eat any house plants. Most of them are poisonous for rabbits, or if they aren’t poisonous, they should be considered to be.
Going under the bed, couch, or other low furniture is just like going through a tunnel. Bunnies love dark, small places. Use CNC fences, crates, boxes or something plastic to block the gap and build a bunny tunnel system with boxes or tubes to keep it occupied.
Not all bunnies are destructive, but they do like being active.
Indoor Rabbits
If your rabbit is going to be 80% + of its time inside, 20% outside, these options may suit you. It also depends on the aesthetics you are after.
A single rabbit must have an enclosed pen that measures 2×3 metres minimum. The more rabbits you have, the bigger the space required.
You have to make considerations about how much exercise your rabbit is going to get. Will it run around inside? Will it have an outdoor pen? Will it have both? Rabbits need a minimum of 2 hours of physical exercise a day. That means they have to move around, hopping, running, jumping, playing, for two hours, over the entire day. It’s a relief that they are good at entertaining themselves, mostly.
Indoor Enclosures
Here are some indoor enclosures of varying sizes and aesthetics.
White Metal Fence
This looks good but it’s not big enough. Don’t be fooled by the prettiness, it won’t stay that way. The small wooden border around the base of the pen is a good idea for two reasons, it keeps the fence panels from moving, and it also limits the amount of poops flung across the room, it could be a little taller, but then rabbits will end up chewing it.
Similar fence panels are available at hardwares, and I bet the person here has painted it white.
Wooden Pen on Wheels
This is a home-made wooden enclosure on wheels. It wouldn’t be that easy to keep clean.
The wood must be bunny safe kiln dried pine, if not it can make your bunny very sick.
Don’t use EVA tiles for the flooring (they are they yellow and green tiles here) rabbits love chewing them because they are soft and squishy. Use something soft and durable like EVA tiles under carpet squares, and then swap the carpet tiles out when they get dirty. They are easy to wash with disinfectant and then dry.
The wheels are a good idea, that way you can move it around to a new room if you have visitors – but only if it fits through the door frame.
Wire Fence
Nice fence. The enclosure itself is too small and the rabbit should not be on tiles with a teensy blanket. Would you like to live in there? This is cruelty, plain and simple.
Fences like this are good, but the enclosure itself needs to be a minimum of twice the size as the one shown here.
C&C Panels
C&C fences are flimsy, but ok. They are usually used to house guinea pigs. Although, you don’t need a super tough and sturdy enclosure for bunnies because they won’t push through the walls like a dog or horse would, you definitely need the hight.
C&C panels come in all different colours and like this one, wire, or solid panels that are opaque or transparent.
They are great if you want to build a multi-storey playhouse, because the panels can be used as the base for a floor, and also the walls. Any C&C panels used as flooring must be covered with sturdy plastic or corflute so the bunny doesn’t get sore feet.
Keep in mind that rabbits, like guinea pigs, will chew the corflute if it is not covered.
C&C fences can be expensive, you should be able to find them in many places online.
Toys for indoor enclosures
Omlet Zippi Shelter
These are great, hard plastic, good sized kennels for rabbits. They come in green or pink. They are expensive initially (around $40 in 2023), but you get your money’s worth from them because they can be used indoors and outdoors.
They are easy to clean, and even though some rabbits like scratching them on the inside, they don’t really do much damage.
Rabbits can climb up on them, but the roof is slightly peaked, which doesn’t make them want to stay up there too long.
Omlet Tunnel
These are an accordion-type tunnel that makes an awful loud noise when you compress or decompress them.
They come with the grey rings for the ends of the tunnel, which you have to attach with the provided screws. You’ll need a screwdriver.
These tunnels are really good, because they are cheaper than the green ones you find in pet shops, you get the grey plastic ends and the tunnels are easy to clean.
Other Tunnels
There are stacks of other types of tunnels, but they are very chewable and won’t last long.
Always look for longevity, not aesthetics.
IKEA Doll Bed
This seems to be a popular alternative to an expensive trampoline bed.
This can be dangerous for bunnies if they chew it because it is made from woods (i.e fibre board) that can cause health problems. It is made of solid pine, but it’s hard to tell if it is kiln dried pine or not.
This is more of an aesthetic piece, rather than functional, just like a trampoline bed. Bunnies could have this destroyed within a week.
Wooden Houses or Castles
These are really cute to look at, and they look especially cute when there are fairy lights hanging near them; but is that functional for a rabbit?
There are cardboard versions, which last less time than a wooden one duw to sturdiness, and chewability.
Be careful, if these are made from particle board, chip board, MDF, fibre board, basically anything that is not kiln dried pine, never give it to your bunny.
Don’t fall for the aesthetics.
Fabric Play Tunnels
In theory these are great. They are larger than the accordion tunnels mentioned above, they are easy to store because they fold flat, and they are colourful.
But are those things good for a bunny?
Rabbits will dig in the tunnel part, which of course is made of satin dancetime fabric and tissue paper, two of the most ridiculous pet fabrics around. Many people complain that within 10 minutes, the brand new toy has a big hole in it. That’s not the toy or the manufacturer’s fault, it’s just not rabbit safe. Just because it has rabbits in the picture doesn’t mean its good for rabbits.
Forage or Snuffle Mats
Hide treats or pellets between the flappy parts and let the rabbit dig around to get them out.
Some rabbits like these, others don’t. It’s hard to tell until you test your rabbit with it.
These are way to expensive for what they are – polar fleece or felt strips sewn on to a backing. If you have any ability to sew, make one yourself. There are plenty of different forage mat designs to copy.
Grass Items
Rabbits love crispy grass things to chew on.
Grassy houses, like this one, which is made from water hyacinth is loads of fun and entertainment for rabbits. Be careful with water hyacinth, it may have been grown on chemical covered ground and your bun may consume those chemicals. There is no way to tell whether it has been grown on such ground.
Those blue and purple circle things in the picture are loofah. Rabbits especially love loofah, but they should only eat natural, uncoloured loofah.
The orange part of the carrot, which appears to be made from sea grass, is fine for rabbits. The green part of the carrot will also be sea grass, but shredded. Rattan is OK for rabbits, but it would be better if it wasn’t coloured. Don’t trust coloured rabbit toys. Even if they say it is all natural colouring, don’t believe it.
Never get a wooden toy like the one on the left. You don’t know which wood it is made from, and whether it has been prepared properly.
Pine cones. They are pine. They are a huge no.
Rattan balls, like the three on the bottom of this picture, are ok for bunnies.
The green sticks could be dodgy, they aren’t a natural colour. Be careful with fruit wood sticks, it is hard to tell whether they have been dried properly or what tree they are really from.
Homemade Toys
There are stacks of enrichment toys you can make with pegs, cardboard toilet roll inserts, ball pits, cardboard, paper, paper-based packing materials, etc. You can get as creative as you like.
Bunnies love toys that you make for them.
Outdoor Rabbits
This is a contentious topic, because if not done properly it can cause more issues than wanted.
With outdoors pens, you need to think about how to protect the rabbit from the weather; cold wind, rain, hail etc. What will the flooring be? Will it have a closed in area? Will it be easy to clean?
Make considerations about an insulated modern hutch and play pen that is easy to clean. The old fashioned wooden ones are often made of woods that can poison your rabbit.
It is also a good idea to consider having a pen that you can move around if you have space in your yard.
Omlet Hutches and Enclosures
Omlet is expensive, but it is worth it. The hutch (top) is double-walled insulated, which keeps bunnies cool and warm depending on the weather. The green enclosure can be built/changed to suit your needs, and there are many different options to suit your needs. Check their website out for inspiration. All I ask is that you consider adding protection from the sun and wind.
Wooden Hutch
Hutches like this should be illegal for proper rabbit care. These look nice and seem functional, but they aren’t.
These hutches are hard to keep clean. That is why like the rabbits in the photos above are kept on a mesh floor. It allows the urine and faeces fall onto a platform that can be slid out and tipped out. This will be hard to keep free of mould, and even cause sicknesses in the rabbit due to the urea.
Also, be aware that the ramp would be too hard for a bunny to get up. Rabbits don’t really like ramps and would rather jump up onto the higher platform.
Finally, it’s made of wood, and most likely not a good type of wood.
Breeders’ Hutch
There is nothing good about hutches like this. They are cruel. How would people like to live in something like this for a month?
The Spruce Pets article: 8 Free DIY Rabbit Hutch Plans says “A rabbit hutch is a great place to keep a rabbit where it can exercise, roam freely, and feel safe in its dedicated enclosure” which is cruelty right there. A rabbit cannot run, jump and play in a small box.
Concrete Floor
Never ever keep a rabbit on concrete or tiles. They need grass under their feet. Rabbits will get sore feet and arthritis if they are kept in enclosures like this.
Toys for outdoor enclosures
Pipe Landscape
If you’ve got the space, making a playground is a great idea. It doesn’t have to be as extravagant as this one pictured, but it can be similar. This particular tunnel arrangement would be for rabbits who are spending all day and all night outside. It would be hard to get the rabbits out of the tunnels under the ground.
These pipes are from a company called RunAround in the UK.
Agi Pipes
If you can get your hands on something like Agi pipe, this is a great way to make a playground. Just make sure you put holes in the pipe so air can get in and circulate. Also make sure that the rabbit doesn’t have access to black pipes on hot days or you may have a cooked bunny.
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